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A visit in Sweden
and my cousin, for the first time in seventy five years...
I
was immediately struck by the simplicity of Swedish culture, which made
itself apparent, soon after leaving the Stockholm airport in my
rental car. The rental attendant didn’t speak much English and
was first surprised and then amused, by my ancient Swedish.
“You sound…I don’t know, like an old person on the radio…someone’s
grandfather,” he said. “I do not mean to offend you,” he went on
as he’d filled in the paperwork for the car, “...possibly like my
grandfather. It is nice to hear and a little bit amusing.”
The immersion into Swedish culture continued as I drove north into
the county of Dalarna, the place my maternal great-grandparents had
fled in the 1800s. Some books I'd read said it was because
of the starvation that
was endemic in Scandinavia at the time. Others said it
was that...but also the desire for more religious freedom. My
relatives
had been pretty strong church people; all the old photos showed
everyone dressed in black, from head to toe and I remembered my mother
and her sisters describing the dark clothing.
Five hours driving brought me to my cousin’s farm, which wasn’t hard to
find. I just asked when I got to
the village of Dala-Järna. Again, the amused look at my halting
Swedish. I sensed they wanted to know more about my and my
ancient accent...who I was and why I was
visiting; but their innate Swedish politeness prevented the question.
When
I arrived at 2:30 in the afternoon, my
cousin’s family were eating dinner, or so it appeared. I was
immediately invited into the kitchen and given a place at the table, a
long pine affair, entirely covered with food. A large
basket of assorted breads dominated the shiney boards, flanked by a
platter with at least four oddly-shaped cheese
blocks and another of sliced luncheon meats.
I thought
I had my times mixed up, but my cousin explained that this was their
main meal of the day, having been in the barn, milking cows and
working,
since six a.m. and after a short nap, they'd be right back at it in
another hour. I pulled
up and was quickly caught up…stumbling to both speak and understand
their Swedish.
“You are speaking the old way,” my cousin's man, Olle said, “...it is
the local
dialect...mål," he smiled
kindly. "We use it too, when we are not in the city.”
And
they did speak it wholly, then and it was far easier for me to
understand them. Like other Swedes I'd met along the way, they
found it
curious that I spoke mål,
after it being so long since my
great-grandparents had emigrated.
“That was in the early 1880’s,
was it not? To think, it has survived in Amerika...it is
wonderful and
you are most welcome here at our home."
After the meal, we went into what was intended as their parlor, I
guessed. There were many very old photographs, copper and iron
utensils, assorted books and other old things ringing the room.
They seemed
proud of their old culture and heritage, I noticed and like that about
them.
“Here is your great-grandfather…the one who…?” he pointed to a framed
tin-type photo on the wall.
“Yes, the one who probably fathered my grandmother and…they didn’t
marry,” I
helped him over the embarrassing introduction that my grandmother was a
bastard
child.
“Yes…that is it...we call them oäcktabarn.”
“I see. Do you know anything about them...illegitimate
children...child?”
“Nay…almost nothing. They never spoke of it...the old
people. It was
something to be ashamed of…what happened...for both sides, I think.”
“We spent the remainder of the day talking until it was time to milk
the cows
again. I volunteered to help them
with the milking.
“Do you know how to milk cows,” he asked, surprised?”
“American cows, yes. Are Swedish cows different?”
“I am not sure, but Lisa will find you some suitable clothes and you
can see whether they are the same, or not.”
©
2007 Smultron Publications, All Rights Reserved
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What is a Valkulla?
continued in the previous chapter...
The
life of a valkulla is
often romanticized, but it was in fact work of drudgery
with the girls rising before dawn to milk, clean the barn, utensils and
drive the cows and goats to the forest pasture. Someone usually
remained with the animals until it was time to bring them home for
evening milking. The old women who remained “at home” in the Fäbod churned the butter and made
cheese. They also cooked whey butter from the whey that remained
after making cheese. This was a slow and exacting process, not
trusted to
young girls, for near the end, it could be so easilly burned.
On weekends,
village boys, come a courting, siblings and husbands often took
the long walk up the mountain to the fäbod to relieve the mutual
loneliness. Then a festive occasion ensued and there would be
much singing and dancing until the early hours.
An experienced valkulla gained
a considerable standing of esteem in the community,
depending on her skill. A vallkulla
who could make the best
butter, cheese, mismõr and sew and knit the finest garments for her
master,
was pursued by many farmers. offering higher wages for her to
take their cows the following year.
Nevertheless,
a valkulla’s life consisted
of loneliness, hard work and often
dangerous situations...wolves, bears and wandering men often came
through the fäbod ,
lurking around the
mountain cabins with evil on their minds.
...end
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